When I was 16 years old I was asked to cut the wedding cake at my cousin’s wedding, and I realized when I saw the lovely multi-tiered cake that I was not up to the challenge. I did my best. Most guests got slabs of cake that looked like they had been hacked off with a hatchet, but so be it. My cousin didn’t fuss at me, likely because in addition to getting married she was deathly sick. [That was 1978, just FYI, and she is still happily married and has grandchildren..]
I have recently been thinking about wedding cakes a lot more, because I have a friend who makes incredible wedding cakes and I follow her on Facebook and Instagram. Her cakes blend art and science and they are delicious as well as beautiful. They are scratch-made cakes, too, which is very rare in the wedding cake or specialty cake markets. If I were a young bride I would totally covet one of those incredible cakes.
Jenean Carlton doesn’t just whip up little cakes for friends in her kitchen. She did that for years, while also taking classes in cake decorating, but she decided a few years ago to turn her hobby into a business. Carlton’s Cakes was born. In just a short time, she has gone from hobbyist to celebrated professional, featured on sites like The Knot and Bridal Extravaganza of Atlanta. Modern Luxury Weddings named her as one of their Top Ten Wedding Experts in Atlanta in 2017.
Jenean figured out the secret to creating luxurious cakes. “My cakes are science and art united. It can’t just be pretty,” she says.
Unlike most high-volume bakers, Jenean makes all cakes from scratch, and uses only the best quality ingredients – French butter, Mexican vanilla, a Swiss type of fondant. She tests out recipes exhaustively to find the best-tasting cake which her clients will love, but it also has to be suitable for being highly decorated.
Jenean also proudly offers gluten-free cakes and even dairy-free cakes. She lives on a gluten-free diet so she has dedicated herself to learning how to make delicious gluten-free cakes. [below, a gluten-free cake with salted caramel and praline pecans]
THE HANDS OF A POTTER
Jenean grew up in Columbus, Georgia and at 16 her family moved to Germany, where they lived for four years. “It was a wonderful experience and it completely changed me.” Jenean feels strongly that living in Germany made her open to adopting a child from China, years later – “Without that experience I would have thought no, that’s too foreign. I can’t do that, adopt from China. I would still have been a very small-town southern girl, but that experience really opened my eyes and made me a citizen of the world.”
After returning from Germany, Jenean attended Georgia State and studied German and Art. “I loved pottery – the sculptural aspect of pottery. It’s also extremely therapeutic. Pottery feels primal. It feels like we’re supposed to do it. You have to focus when you work on the wheel. It clears your mind. Before you know it, it’s been 8 hours and you’ve completely lost all that time.”
Jenean feels developing pottery skills paved the way for her cake sculpting years later. “When you find that thing that really feeds your soul, you lose yourself in it. Also, I like to create and produce something that is tangible.”
After her brother passed away, the therapeutic aspect of pottery, art, and sculpture became a lifeline. He was an amazing cook, her brother Jimmy, as was her grandmother.
MAKING A BAKER
Jenean’s first career out of college was in the optical industry, and she was very successful at that for years before even starting to think about a career as a cake designer.
However, she loved baking.
“Since I was a teenager I have loved baking because of the chemistry aspect of it. When I worked for an optical business in Savannah, we had thirty-something employees and I made cakes for every single person’s birthday, every year. Everybody was used to me bringing in cakes all the time.”
Jenean loved the feeling she got from making someone a cake. “It’s a way to soothe yourself, and make other people happy at the same time. It’s a way to give of yourself to other people. I’ve made cakes for children whose father just died, and it’s their birthday. It’s a way to minister to other people.”
Jenean started thinking seriously about decorating cakes ten years ago. Jenean wanted to make her daughter a doll cake, like she had loved growing up. “My Mom got me doll cakes, when I was little, but I could not find ANYBODY that sold doll cakes.” When she couldn’t find such a cake, she made one. “I just started carving cake. I found a mold and inverted it to look like a skirt. I already had sculptural skills from pottery. All that pottery magic just started coming back, and then I was hooked.”
Her husband Andrew was supportive of her baking projects from the beginning. Jenean and Andrew met in 1994 when she was managing a huge ophthalmology practice in Jonesboro. She and a friend moved into an apartment near Emory and Andrew’s best friend was their neighbor.
I have known Jenean and Andrew since we moved into this house in 2005. I feel a great kinship not only because she is a talented and very kind person, but because she is a fellow adoptive mom. Andrew and Jenean brought baby home from China in 2007 and she is now a very bright, active 12 year old.
I have watched Jenean’s cake ministry/business evolve over the years and have tried to help when I could.“You gave me a great recipe in the beginning, that I fell in love with, and it’s one of my most important recipes, a sour cream pound cake,” Jenean recalls. “I have made that recipe about a thousand times. That is the basis for the recipe that I make the most.”
Jenean also remembered a guidance counselor years ago telling her she had both a scientific brain and an artistic brain -- the perfect brain for developing recipes and creating cakes that are works of art at the same time. “I have one of those weird brains, a fifty-fifty art and science brain. I kind of tend to like a lot of everything. I like the science and I love the art too. I like both. That makes a delicious cake.”
LEARNING THE ART
“I started taking classes at Cake Art and I took every class they had in cakes there. It was just a hobby, but a hobby I was pretty obsessed with because I wanted to master it pretty quickly. It was a way to create art but also to make things for my friends and my family.”
“Once you get the basics down of cake decorating, you start exploring. It’s a whole world. Baking is one world, and cake artistry and technique is a separate world. All the elements in that world, like fondant, gum paste, and isomalt, all are different.”
Isomalt can be molded to appear like clear glass. It’s very tricky.
Jenean had to walk [learn fondant] before she could run [sculpt with isomalt]. Along the way she was always learning. “There are a lot of different fondant products. The one I use now is from Switzerland. To me, it’s the best in the industry. It’s incredibly expensive. The workability and taste are remarkable. It’s worth it, for a wedding cake.”
After ten years of making and giving away cakes while she was learning, Jenean started doing some 4 tier cakes, and donated wedding cakes, while still learning.
She now feels she now has the best of both worlds. “I can explore edible mediums that are sculptural and match them with my baking.”
CREATING AND TAKING THE CAKE
Baking cakes and decorating them is a much science as it art, and it demands discipline.
“You have to follow the rules and you have to be disciplined. Baking will make you a very disciplined person. You have to really focus on it. You can’t be talking on the phone and creating a recipe. It’s not going to work out,” Jenean says.
Although well-versed in the language of art – from Renaissance to Classical – Jenean’s newest passion is Industrial Design. That aesthetic is just becoming popular now. “The East coast is very slow to shift. The West coast has been on it awhile. I will be doing more of that.”
However, brides who still want a more traditional look are welcome clients. “I do those cakes all the time,” Jenean explains.
She also does groom’s cakes. A recent one looks incredibly realistic, beers in an ice bucket –yet it’s a cake. Jenean: “They’re usually very sculptural and art-intensive. I love doing them but they take up a lot of time.”
left, a groom's cake -- the ice cubes are isomalt
I am fascinated by how one can transport a cake to an event.
Creating each cake is as much about architecture as it is about baking or decorating. “Cake will not balance itself. There has to be a support structure inside. It’s all about stability. A wedding cake is on display for four hours.”
A few years ago Jenean invested in a cake safe, a box which allows her to safely transport cakes to events, unharmed.
“It’s a plexiglass box and there’s a really heavy base on it. You put your cake inside of it and there’s a stainless steel rod that goes through every tier of the cake, and it locks in. The cake is very stable.”
However, her role isn’t done until the cake is installed. Jenean goes into each wedding and makes sure the cake is set up properly. She also urges brides to consult with their caterer to find someone to cut the cake properly.
“Professional cake cutters are very skilled at they do. We don’t do that at all. They usually make about $300 an hour. There is a very specific technique and they know how to get every serving out of it.”
For years, Jenean was an optical professional and baked cakes for fun. However, two years ago that all changed, when she was offered money for a cake.
Jenean now lives in a house where there is plenty of room for creating cakes, and she has left the optical world behind. Cake creation is her passion.
“I am focusing totally on cakes now,” she explains.
above, praline cake with Angelico infusion and dark chocolate ganache
March, April, May, September, October, November – those are the wedding months in Atlanta. Jenean: “Brides are not opting for weddings in those hot months, which is great for me. Cake is very temperature sensitive. When we are delivering we have to put dry ice, and when traffic is bad that cake may be sitting there for hours and it can just be a nightmare.”
Jenean loves creating and working with clients. “I love the science and technique of what I am doing, but I also love working with brides,” Jenean notes.
“I don’t like to reproduce things. I like things to be unique.”
Jenean takes pride in the fact that each bride gets a cake that no-one else will ever have. “The most important thing about a wedding cake is that it’s theirs. It’s not my idea. I offer a choice of about 4 cakes, and 9 fillings, and I offer different icings, when I have cake tastings with my clients,” Jenean says.
Her most challenging cake so far? “It was a really tall cake with tons of ruffles on it and a pom pom ball at the top that was covered in ruffles. It had a long burgundy ribbon. That cake was really hard – 600 ruffles. Took me 90 hours.”
Most of her cake elements are edible. Ribbons and flowers are sometimes not edible, or they might have elements that aren’t. “If you see a flower suspended, out there in space, it has a wire in inside that petal. Otherwise it wouldn’t float. That’s very normal and acceptable,” Jenean explains.
Although wedding cakes make up the majority of her business, Jenean also still makes special occasion cakes, for instance cakes for special anniversaries or birthdays. She likes making large cakes that can be highly decorated.
Once a customer has enjoyed a Carlton’s Cake “They don’t go away. They keep coming back for more,” Jenean says. “One client is turning 30 this year and she wants a cake. I end up building really strong relationships with a lot of brides, and their mothers.”
If you are looking for a unique, incredible cake, get in touch with my friend Jenean over at Carlton’s Cakes. You will be thrilled with what she creates for your special day.
If you want to vote for Carlton's Cakes as best wedding cake vendor in Atlanta, go to THIS PAGE and scroll down. Thanks.
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